GUINEA PIGS

No ID, no revolution

By Taylor Smith

A revolution was brewing at the Pavilion on Monday night. Normally the alleged home to secretive, Eyes Wide Shutýtype functions and the occasional dance party/meatmarket, the Pavilion was transformed into ground zero for the barley-and-hops set, where guests were challenged to Taste the Revolution. Reason: Boston Beer Company founder and brewer Jim Koch (pronounced Cook) — one of the fathers of modern microbrewing — was in town to unveil his newest creation, Sam Adams Light.

Koch has been developing the brew for the past two years with hopes of finally offering beer drinkers a palatable light beer. With test batches in tow, Koch gauged drinkers’ reactions at a number of anonymous Boston watering holes until he was satisfied with the beer. He then chose two test markets for the beer: Portland, Maine and Rhode Island.

When asked why he chose Portland, Koch gave a knowing look and answered, “people take their beer seriously up here.” To wit: one of the many Portland restaurant and liquor distributor luminaries that attended the gala — a self-proclaimed beer drinker from a long line of beer drinkers — remarked, “This kicks Coors Light’s ass, and I like Coors Light.” ‘Nuf said.

But why a light beer? If you think creating a drinkable light beer was a humanitarian action on Koch’s part, think again. Light beer accounts for 45 percent of all brews sold domestically and sales have been growing 5 percent annually for the past five years — seven times faster than the rest of the market. What’s more, migrating faster than ever to the light side are younger drinkers — a demographic Sam Adams Light (and Shipyard’s new Light Ale, for that matter) is heavily courting. The firm’s ads were looped on a TV at the Pavilion’s entrance, showing young, hip people partying, letting loose with orgasmic shouts after tasting the beer for the first time.

Before the unveiling, guests were treated to an open bar stocked with Amstel Light and Michelob Light. Suddenly, the lights dimmed and a hush fell over the crowd as Jim Koch stepped up to the stage. With an eloquent ceremonial speech (especially for a guy who had been drinking since 8 a.m.), Koch slipped the cloth off the lone bottle of Sam Adams Light, illuminated on a pedestal, and urged the crowd to “taste the revolution!” As the opening strains of The Beatles’ “Revolution 1” pumped through the room, the dance floor immediately cleared as guests mobbed the bars, carrying away armfuls of Sam Adams Light bottles.

Though it was easy to get lost in the promotion of the event — the Sam Adams logos everywhere, corporate shill/NYC-based funk band Milo Z — one question remains: How’s the beer? Answer: I liked it, but, then again, I’m a die-hard PBR drinker, so head to your favorite bar and see for yourself.