Bold statements

At Garofalo’s more is more

By Mark Klimek

GASTRO-ARCHITECTURE: executive chef Tom Sheehan says, “My cooking is all about building layers of flavor.

Summer officially starts next Wednesday, June 21. As far as I’m concerned, it’s already arrived.

Sure, we’re still a few weeks away from clear 85 degree days and $3-per-pound lobsters. But other essential elements of a Maine summer are firmly in place: Teva sightings are way up, while Bean boots have become virtually extinct; Commercial Street is clogged with out-of-state plates; and perhaps most tellingly, summertime food favorites like the Lobster Shack and Fat Boy have begun cranking out lobster rolls and Whoperburgers.

Soon we’ll be lounging on our favorite beaches — which also means I’ll be spending more time at Garofalo’s (34 Ocean Avenue, Scarborough; 883-6684). Located in the Higgins Beach Inn, just a stone’s throw from the fabulous Higgins Beach. Garofalo’s makes apres-beach dining a wonderful experience by blending seaside inn charm — a visit from the family dog upon arrival, mismatched dinner plates, and an old-fashioned dining room that’s more grandma than gourmet — with some of the area’s most eclectic and artful cuisine.

The man responsible is executive chef Tom Sheehan, who aims for complexity and intensity by incorporating a wide variety of ingredients into each dish. If you’re rigidly devoted to simple food, subtle flavors, and classical preparation, Garofalo’s is probably not your best bet.

Sheehan agrees, but makes no apologies for his style. “My cooking is all about building layers of flavor by using many elements that you might not think would work together,” he says. “It’s not simple, everyday food, because I won’t cook something that doesn’t make a bold statement.”

That kind of everything-and-the-kitchen-sink approach at most restaurants results in a nightmare of unfocused cuisine in which one flavor asserts itself at the expense of the others. But in Sheehan’s capable hands, disparate tastes harmonize more often than not. Case in point is Garofalo’s lobster stuffing appetizer ($9) — roasted cornbread stuffing laced with honey, packed with fresh lobster claws, and accompanied by Sambuca-infused butter and a dill sauce. The sweet lobster countered the smoky, roasted cornbread perfectly, and the whole thing tasted surprisingly refined despite two rich sauces. “The last thing you want after sitting on the beach all day is a heavy meal,” notes Sheehan. “So I try to make food that’s exciting but that won’t weigh you down.”

Accordingly, the Caesar salad ($5) was delicious, flavorful and light, with a bright lemon-caper dressing in place of the typical garlic and mustard-heavy offering. Sheehan’s non-traditional recipe also calls for sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke hearts, which impart a lovely texture and flavor without bashing the salad’s more subtle elements.

Garofalo’s “more is more” approach is most evident in its entrees, such as beef tournedos topped with sautéed mushroom caps, Saga bleu cheese and horseradish-pancetta demi glace ($19). A potentially overwhelming dish, each ingredient instead was expertly incorporated: the juicy, pan-seared tenderloins, crusted with black peppercorns, stood up to the intense twin attack of Saga blue and horseradish — and you’ll probably never hear me complain about any dish that includes pancetta. This bold choice demanded a big red, and I was pleased to find one of California’s most consistently wonderful Zinfandels, Ravenswood Vintners Blend ($25), on the 23-bottle wine list.

The Zinfandel also made a love connection with the tender rack of New Zealand lamb ($21). Roasted with pommery mustard, rosemary, garlic, and a blend of shiitake and portobello mushrooms, then topped with a sweet blackberry merlot reduction, the dish blended sweet, spicy, and earthy wonderfully.

Desserts, prepared by sous-chef Suzie Wallner, also were appropriately decadent. That shouldn’t surprise anyone who attended this year’s Chocolate Lovers’ Fling, where Garofalo’s won the People’s Choice Award for its triple chocolate frozen mocha mudslide pie ($5).

Garofalo’s attempts at bold cuisine sometimes fell flat, with the problems usually centered around sauces. For example, a pungent, tangy garlic and roasted pepper sauce overwhelmed the scallops and shrimp. A less complex accompaniment would have allowed the seafood’s naturally elegant flavors to shine. Also, the calamari, while cooked to perfection, was drowned in a sea of balsamic.

Still, a few weak spots should be expected when a chef takes chances — and Sheehan deserves much credit for his daring approach. Overall, Garofalo’s offers tasty rewards to adventurous diners.

Mark Klimek can be reached at writeco@maine.rr.com.