A taste of Italy

Cinque Terra makes you feel like a paisano

By Kathy Gunst

Cinque Terra, 36 Wharf St, Portland, (207) 347-6154, Open Tues. through Sun. from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Beginning August 21, also open Tues. through Sat. from 11 to 2 p.m. Reservations recommended. All major credit cards. Full bar.

Like a well-crafted film or play, a truly great restaurant takes you out of your world, and transports you to a place created by someone else’s imagination and artistic energy. Cinque Terra, a new restaurant in Portland specializing in the cuisine of Italy’s Liguria region, does just that. At a recent dinner at Cinque Terra on Wharf Street, I felt as though I had been swept away to the Italian Riviera — a place where food is prepared with great care and respect, where olive oil is fruity and peppery, the seafood is exquisitely fresh, pasta is homemade, and the service is warm but professional.

Entering Cinque Terra you find yourself in a dramatic two-level dining room. The former warehouse has tall ceilings, skylights, exposed brick walls, and a grand staircase and balcony bordered by a sleek wrought iron and wood railing. The mood is high style, but not trendy or snobbish. The colors — celadon green and sunflower yellow — evoke the Mediterranean. The open kitchen explodes with the intoxicating scents of garlic, sizzling meat and fish, tomatoes, and fresh herbs. The Euro-pop and opera blasting from the sound system get you revved. You feel hungry, excited to be there.

We were seated at a table in the balcony (be forewarned, it gets a bit warm up there) because a mere three weeks after the official opening the downstairs was packed, and the outdoor café tables were full. But we didn’t mind, because from upstairs we had a perfect view of the kitchen where we could watch the chef in action, the salad chef assembling plates that look like still-lifes, and the sous chef madly running around making sure that everything was running smoothly.

The waitress arrived at out table, a beautiful young woman with long brown hair. We were half expecting her to have an Italian accent. (As it turns out, she is from Skowhegan.) She explained the menu, urging us to, “eat Italian style and order half portions so you can sample a multi-coursed dinner.” That was the best idea we had heard in a while.

Antipasti: the porcini mushroom with fontina cheese on grilled polenta was simple, but delicious. Polenta is so often dry and unappealing, but this one, topped with the earthy essence of wild mushrooms and creamy fontina, was moist and flavorful. The tomato, mozzarella, and basil salad — standard fare in so many restaurants — was superb. The tomatoes were August fresh and ripe, the mozzarella was moist and melted in our mouths, and the chiffonade of fresh basil added a dazzling accent to the dish.

STYLISH BUT NOT SNOBBISH: Cinque Terra evokes the Italian Riviera.

The salad course was next. Thin strips of crunchy fresh fennel topped peppery arugula leaves with lemon juice and a fabulous olive oil. (We later learned that the extra virgin oil is from Liguria and is imported by Portland’s own Rogers International). The arugula salad was served with thin shavings of grainy Parmesan cheese and was totally refreshing.

Next, the pasta course. The special of the day — homemade ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms tossed with a sage butter — were pillows of sheer pleasure. They were so light and tender it didn’t seem possible. I fought with my husband over the last bite. The risotto with crabmeat was a wonder. The rice, infused with fish stock, grated Parmesan, and herbs and tossed with a generous portion of Maine crabmeat, was close to perfection. (Warning: the half portions are ample. Order carefully.)

Believe it or not, we weren’t stuffed and actually looked forward to the Tuscan grilled T-bone steak with infused Ligurian olive oil. When an oversized piece of meat was served, charred and appealing on the outside and medium rare and exceedingly juicy inside, we were in heaven. The herb-infused olive oil, drizzled on top, highlighted the meat’s flavor, and the fried sprigs of fresh rosemary, thyme, and sage were not mere garnishes, but added an earthy, herbal perfume. The grilled salmon with lemon, capers, and olive oil was well done, but not thrilling, although we managed to polish off every last bite.

The owner guided us through the all-Italian wine menu to a perfectly crisp Pinio Grigio. He explained that Cinque Terra — “five towns” on the Italian Riviera — is where he is from. Cinque Terra’s staff was so pleasant and easy we didn’t even want to think about leaving. But the balcony was getting hot, so we asked about having dessert and coffee outside at one of the now-free café tables. The cheese and fruit plate — a collection of four Italian cheeses including Parmigiano-Reggiano and dolce(sweet) Gorgonzola was served with thin slices of apples, pears, and fresh figs. Our only complaint: more fruit, please. The panna cotta was creamy and rich, but needed something to offset all that richness — a touch of vanilla or lemon would have been most welcome. The espresso was strong and, sitting beneath the stars, taking in the salty sea air, we could swear we were on the Italian Riviera. When the owner handed me the bill and said “grazie,” I immediately answered “prego,” even though I don’t really know how to speak Italian.