Classic change

Pratt’s Cape Neddick Inn is as inviting as ever

By Kathy Gunst

Cape Neddick Inn, 1233 Route 1, Cape Neddick, ME, (207) 363-2899. Dinner served Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 p.m. All credit cards accepted.

REMADE/REMODELED: pumping fresh air into an old soufflé.

When the Cape Neddick Inn was sold last May the buzz around town was that one of Southern Maine’s landmark restaurants was gone forever, to be replaced by who knew what. The new Cape Neddick Inn is different. But under the ownership of chef Jonathan Pratt it seems that the inn’s reputation for innovative food and a quiet, but creative, atmosphere is still intact.

The new Cape Neddick Inn is as inviting as ever. The main dining room, a large, two-tiered space, still exhibits a collection of local art and sculpture (though there seemed to be a lot less of both than under the previous owners). The wine list is more impressive than ever (a framed certificate from The Wine Spectator attests to the restaurant’s ever-growing collection), and the country furniture and candlelit tables (generously spaced out) give the room a relaxed, elegant feeling. The old Cape Neddick Inn offered a funky, hand-written menu, with unusual (and sometimes successful) dishes. One peek at Chef Pratt’s traditionally typed menu and I knew there were some big changes going on.

To be perfectly honest, at first glance, the new menu felt . . . boring. Where were all the enticing, dazzle-me dishes? The choices were mainly old standards, with a few newer-sounding dishes thrown in: New England Seafood Chowder, Country Terrine, Smoked Salmon with Capers, Maine Steamer Clams, and Scallop Risotto. My friend murmured “I’m not surprised by any of these choices. Maybe we should just skip appetizers.” But our waiter arrived, a tall, handsome professional, and talked with enthusiasm about each dish. I chose the Scallop Risotto on his recommendation and my friend opted for the chowder.

Soon she was presented with an oversized soup bowl, chock full of fat steamer clams, chunks of local fish, smoky bacon, tender potatoes, and celery. Steam and salty ocean essence filtered up and she smiled. One sip of the creamy broth and she clutched her heart. “Oh my God! This is amazing,” she said, hunkering down and sipping appreciatively. The risotto included two large, grilled sea scallops atop a modest portion of risotto scattered with paper thin slivers of fried leeks and brown butter. The combination of the rich seafood against the creamy, perfectly cooked rice was heavenly. We tried the homemade corn bread and salt bread that arrived hot and gave each other a look. Was she thinking what I was thinking — that this food was way above average?

Our suspicions were partly confirmed with the arrival of the main courses. Chef Pratt’s rendition of the classic Grilled Filet of Beef Chef Jean Morel with puff potatoes and baby carrots was brilliant. A filet mignon, crusty charred on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth tender inside, was lightly coated in an intense reduction of beef and veal stock with a perfect punch of pepper. A tiny disc of beef marrow on top of the meat added extra richness. The puff potatoes delighted my friend. “What are these?” she asked in child-like wonder. A small cylinder of mashed potatoes, baked to a golden, crusty brown didn’t begin to describe the way they felt in the mouth: airy and light, but full of the comfort of potatoes. The carrots were a revelation — peeled into slender, miniature shapes and braised in butter. “Who would’a thought a carrot was capable of such flavor?” my friend asked.

Another entrée, Braised Lamb with Garlic, Onions and Mushrooms, wasn’t nearly as successful. Leg of lamb and shoulder of lamb had been braised into an extremely tender, no-knife-needed stew. But the flavor was flat and a bit heavy. The homemade pappardelle noodles and excellent ratatouille elevated the dish only slightly.

It began to dawn on me that what we were experiencing was classic food that has all but disappeared from modern American restaurants. This food was created by a chef who is well trained in technique — perfect braising, grilling, sautéing. I did a bit of snooping into the chef’s background and learned that he was trained at the Culinary Institute of America and served apprenticeships at two of New York’s top restaurants, Jean-Georges and Daniel. Chef Pratt’s mentor, Chef Jean Morel, for whom the extraordinary beef dish was named, happened to be sitting at the table beside us. “I had a superb meal,” he told us in his thick French accent.

We hadn’t even considered dessert when a dramatic-looking chocolate soufflé was whisked by our table. I assumed the chef had made a special treat for his French mentor, but the waiter urged us to order one. “It takes 15 minutes,” he warned “but it’s worth every minute.” Once again he was right, as he placed an airy puff of chocolate in front of us. He took a spoon and cut open the middle, causing the masterpiece to deflate somewhat. He then poured an espresso cream into the middle of the soufflé, causin­ the hot, creamy sauce to absorb the inside of the soufflé and bubble up. It was the best soufflé I can remember. A pot of chamomile/lavender tea settled all the richness.

A woman working at the bar told us the new owner is planning a facelift for the restaurant this winter. My only hope is that things don’t change too much. With its menu of classic dishes, and its old fashioned comfort, The Cape Neddick Inn is a welcome respite in this age of “can you top this?” restaurants.