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The Back Bay Grill
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The Back Bay Grill 65 Portland St., Portland, (207) 772-8833. Lounge open from 4:30 to 9 p.m. on Mon. through Fri., and from 4:30 to 10 p.m. on Sat. and Sun.
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I’ve been developing a complex lately. I think it’s from watching too much of the Learning Channel because I feel like I need a wardrobe makeover, better social skills, and for wife Jackie to send me on some trip so she can re-do the basement while I’m away. Maybe I need to prove to myself that I can still get out, enjoy what all them dudes are drinking on Queer Eye, and pop back some tasty appetizers at a hip little joint downtown. Not dinner, but cocktails and classy snacks. Maybe with some product in my hair, you know? Like a post-exfoliation celebration or something. Well, last week, fate and luck were on my side (the kind of fate and luck that only occur in hindsight-driven, premeditated articles) because lo and behold, I get this press release from the Back Bay Grill announcing a newly renovated bar and lounge area! New bar with vintage mantelpiece, new stools, a nice little bar menu to showcase interesting ideas on a smaller scale, and specialty cocktails for the adventurous. It sounded like medicine for the sick, so I exfoliated, massaged some Fiber into my hair, and sped off in the Reviewmobile last Tuesday night. With me, as always, was Jackie, but this time I brought ammunition: lounging and drink expert (or at least as much of an expert as Queer Eye’s Jai is a "culture expert") Olan. There was a slight bit of confusion as we walked in and requested a seat in the "lounge" because there was no discernable lounge in sight. Apparently, there wasn’t one out of sight, either. After quickly determining that the couch and comfy chairs had not yet been put in place, we nestled into the rounded corner of the expanded bar and complimented the brushed metal and wood construction. It was all very classy and new-feeling, and I immediately put in an order for one of the new house-specialty drinks: the Dill Pickle Bloody Mary. They use their own special garlic-and-dill infused vodka, making the resultant drink powerfully spicy and briny. But if you’re like me (God help you), and enjoy a good sour pickle once in a while, I think you’ll be satisfied. Olan decided to make up for the nouveau atmosphere by going with a classic men’s-club drink, a Rusty Nail (equal parts scotch and Drambuie), which was much mellower than I would have expected. Jackie was driving, and got water. The bar menu is a short-and-sweet seven items, including a non-priced option of Curried Popcorn. This arrived about halfway through the night, "compliments of the chef," which was strange because we thought we were going to get it free anyway. Regardless, it was beautifully exotic and trashy all at the same time, the spices allowing for finger licking and the butter for hand wiping. It fit in perfectly with the rest of the menu, an adventurous play on more traditional bar food. They have burgers and pizza on hand, but the burger is served on a meltingly rich brioche bun and topped with shredded Caesar salad. Nestled alongside the sandwich are shaved and fried sweet potatoes, looking like a pile of curled-up ribbon snipped into one-inch segments. The pizza, served with the hamburger, is grilled flatbread with smoked salmon and caviar. Sharp capers and red onions complemented the smoke and brine of the other toppings. Arriving about at this point was Round 2 (the final round, it would turn out) of drinks. Olan and I both chose from the specialty cocktail menu again, ordering the French Martini for her and the Maytag Blue Martini for myself. The Maytag Blue is just that: blue-hued from the Magellan gin, and garnished with bleu cheese-stuffed green olives suspended precariously over the drink by a toothpick. Not wanting to cloud my beautiful drink with the cheese, I opted for the bite-of-olive, sip-of-drink method. The pungent and earthy cheese went surprisingly well with the juniper in the gin, as odd as a cheese martini sounds, but I likened it more to a well paired appetizer and cocktail than a singular drink. Olan was plowing through her choice, made with Grey Goose vodka, Chambord, and pineapple. Sweet, and well disguised, this drink is dangerous. If your wallet can handle it, you’ll toss down a few before you know it and end up on the floor counting the shoelaces of the other bar patrons. Along with drinks, we were also busily making our way through the rest of the bar menu. Mixed Country Olives, a tiny copper butter warmer of orange zest and garlic chips sprinkled over a selection of warmed olives, would have been a great accompaniment to a plain old gin martini if I wasn’t already turning red. Jackie’s Crab Cake was super crispy and piping hot, served with acidic foils of lemon pepper crème fraiche and a marinated cucumber salad. I thoroughly enjoyed my Smoked Duck Breast Salad, the meat fanned out and topped with frisee, a fine brunoise (teeny tiny dice) of green apple, fresh herbs, and a light vinaigrette. With some regret, we left having left only two specialty items not sampled: the Grilled Gulf Shrimp with red pepper coulis and cilantro, and the Fresh Strawberry Cocktail. As much fun as I had sipping martinis and nibbling dainty food, I was itching to get home and throw my Super Bowl Champion Patriots cap back on. Chef/Owner Larry Matthews made it hard to leave, however, and I have no doubt our trio will be back to lounge on those comfy chairs. Whenever they arrive. Andy King can be reached at snandis@yahoo.com
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