Like the region it’s named after — rich in Biblical allegory — the Nile restaurant has remained, in its brief existence, something of a mystery. After being open for only a couple of weeks, it suspiciously closed for a week, which only heightened the intrigue (as well as skepticism) behind the joint that had replaced former Italian stalwart Bella Cucina. "Too bad," I thought, because the one thing the downtown area — rich in Thai and Indian establishments — doesn’t have is a good Middle Eastern place.

Turns out Nile isn’t so much Middle Eastern as it is upper African and, more particularly, Somali. You won’t find falafel anywhere on the menu, which was the real tip-off that they weren’t going for the Middle Eastern angle when the place finally reopened a couple weeks ago. What you will find is a host of modestly priced dishes summoning the spirit of homecooked simplicity and warmth. The fact is, Nile is by every definition a "start up": undoubtedly a family-run business, the kids were in charge the night we went, and it looked like they were piecing things together — chicken legs were out, pasta was not on the menu, etc. All things were standard trials a new restaurant confronts, and they made no difference to our dining experience (although some real napkins might have). It’s just heartening to note that in a city that begs for this kind of ethnic dining experience, these undoubtedly newly immigrated upstarts could actually make a go of it.

First they’ve got to fix a few things, though. For instance, the night we went, a Tuesday, we walked into an empty dining hall with no music. The thing that’s funny is David Colston, the Anthony Bourdain of Portland and the only one I knew in the neighborhood who’d actually tried Nile, gave the thumbs-up on the food, but also complained about the lack of music. It’s just that type of finishing touch that Nile needs to pay more attention to. When we asked him to put on some music, our host graciously obliged, switching on the Somali music, which, considering the circumstances and surroundings, was actually somewhat psychedelic.

As were the trappings of the art-deco Afri-effects, right down to the faux potted palms. It was the Waikiki Lounge syndrome — particularly since they hadn’t really bothered to change much of the décor since Bella Cuccina vacated. The thing is, that place always looked more like a Mexican restaurant on the interior than an Italian joint — end result is that Nile, as it stands, looks like Mesa Verde painted over with a Jurassic Park theme.

I’ll take this time to mention the napkins and then be done with it — the napkins were inferior. As Ellen said: "We could’ve used more stable napkins. It was good messy food." And, as one half of WMPG’s twisted-sister team EA & KK, she knows.

The only other customers were a couple who seemed like they were having a bad first date — even though they’d probably been married for 20 years. They didn’t seem too happy with the food either, even though the woman stood outside looking at the menu for 10 minutes, which is perhaps what put the thorn in the side of her companion. We could see them through the picture window as they were debating whether or not to come in. We tried to avert our eyes, but it was hard since there was nobody else in the restaurant.

No complaints about the food — Blue Nile Sampler was a rich and delightful mix of Middle Eastern faves like hummus, tabouli, and babba ghanoush, served with pita. Each version was spectacular, although I particularly enjoyed the tabouli, which was pungent and savory almost like a pico de gallo (once again, the Mexican themes — perhaps it was the wallpaper?). The Chicken Contentment, a large roll-up with tomatoes and onions, is, at $4.95, one of the best deals in town. The chicken was lightly marinated in a sauce similar to curry and cooked to tender perfection. Although none of the food on the menu was particularly spicy, a green chili sauce, somewhere between a salsa and a chutney, which was placed on our table shortly after we ordered, was — despite a certain saltiness — the perfect compliment to the entrees and would’ve pleased most heat-seekers.

Also not for the squeamish was the White Nile Goat: a lot of good visceral chunks of goat, lightly seasoned and falling off the bone. KK — the other half of the EA & KK team and an avowed vegetarian — would’ve been frightened by the knee caps and collarbones, but one thing’s for sure: Bourdain — or Colston — would’ve loved it!

Nile apparently doesn’t have a liquor license yet, so beverages consisted of some really delicious smoothie-like drinks including the Mango Lassi, featuring a seductive dash of rosehips, and Guava Nectar, both of which complemented the rich and comforting food. Ultimately, if food is your God — as I sometimes think it is with me — Nile is a cleansing experience. Take me to the river.

Joe S. Harrington can be reached at joesh@ix.netcom.com