To those who make an effort to cook with the seasons, the little shoots that start popping up through recently exposed earth are harbingers of spring’s wet rescue from the drought of winter. Tulip bulbs, pushing their green leaves through the brown, look a bit like wild leeks to the starved and hallucinating forager, and cooks all over the city count down the days until the first of the season’s vegetables become available: Rhubarb, artichokes, and spring peas are classics of this chilly wind/warm sun weather. When local asparagus starts hitting the menus, however, you know that the snow has really taken a break for another five months. Sigh.

Other than having the incredible ability to make off-smelling evacuations a dinner table topic — a feat brought into the mainstream by Babe Ruth’s pointed observation while at the height of his fame: "Asparagus makes my urine smell funny" — it’s also quite tasty. Despite both of these positive characteristics, there are still those who seem repelled by it. I’ll offer my stock reply to people who claim to hate any particular ingredient: You probably haven’t had it cooked right, or, at the very least, in a manner consistent with your particular likes and dislikes.

So I’m going to offer up two ways of cooking the first asparagus of the spring. At the time that you’re reading this, you should be able to get good local asparagus at the Whole Grocer, the Portland Public Market, Rosemont Market and Bakery, farmers markets, and anywhere else that has the brains to sell regional greens. The stuff shipped from California, while available year round, can’t hold a candle to either the anticipation or the follow through of the much awaited-for local incarnation, and besides, isn’t California 3000 miles away?

GRILLED ASPARAGUS

Well, this one doesn’t need a whole lot of explaining. The crispness of the vegetable, as well as its thickness and water content, make it practically perfect for a couple of minutes over the coals or gas flame. It is, hands down, my favorite vegetable to grill. You can eat them hot as a side to your steak, or you can chill them down and serve on an antipasti plate with olives, sharp provolone, and marinated button mushrooms.

Serves 3-4

1 bunch asparagus, about 1 pound

Olive oil, kosher salt, and pepper

Lemon juice (optional)

1. Hold the asparagus in your fingertips, and bend until the stalk breaks. This is where the woody part naturally separates from the more tender part. If this is fun for you, continue through the bunch; if you’re short-timing it, eyeball how much of the stem you broke off and lop that length from the bottom of the whole bunch in one fell swoop.

2. Toss to coat in olive oil, with a three-fingers-and-a-thumb pinch of salt, and a couple of twists of fresh pepper.

3. Lay on grill, turning when slightly blistered and charred. Flip once, blister the other side, and pull off the grill. Sprinkle with lemon juice if you like it zippy.

ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH CHIVE CRÈME FRAICHE AND PANCETTA

Using similar flavors as the above recipe, this is a lovely — and easy — soup for a spring starter or a meal. If you’re not a meat eater, garnish with some freshly foraged morels, or croutons cooked in garlic butter.

Serves 4

1 bunch asparagus, about one pound, shopped into 2-inch pieces

1 medium russet potato, large dice

1 yellow onion, large dice

Olive oil

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

The juice of half a lemon

.5 cup crème fraiche

1 tablespoon cream

10 fresh chives, minced

1.25-inch thick piece of pancetta, cubed

Salt and pepper

1. Cook the pancetta over low heat until brown and crisp, but still chewy. Let drain on a paper towel.

2. In a large pot, about four quarts, heat the olive oil and cook the onion until just soft. Add the asparagus and cook until soft and bright green. Add the potato and stock, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the potato is easily broken apart with a fork. Take off heat.

3. Using an immersion blender, or a regular blender in small batches (look out! Be careful when blending hot, thickened liquids!), blend the soup until nice and smooth. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

4. Whisk together the crème fraiche, chives, and cream in a small bowl.

5. Serve by ladling soup into bowls, streaking the crème fraiche over the surface of the soup, and dotting with the pancetta. Or, cook more pancetta and add a handful. That’s what we do.

Andy King can be reached at dinnerwithandy@yahoo.com