Taste the heat Chili-heads appreciate the flavor in the pepper BY WILSON ROTHSCHILD

True chili-pepper aficionados are food lover in a class unto themselves. While many people savor the tingly, burning sensation of the chemical capsaicin (the "heat" component in chilies), the true "head-head" knows and appreciates both the heat and the subtle nuances and varying levels of flavor in different chilies. This unique and often compulsive breed of people will go to great lengths to obtain their own version of comfort food. Unfortunately for most of us here in Maine (yes, I count myself one of this compulsive breed), most of our contact with chilies of any kind comes in chain restaurants where the piñatas, sombreros, and fluorescent flavored tequilas take center stage, leaving the food by the wayside. In these joints, a nice case of diarrhea is the best you can hope for.

While chilies are becoming more prominent in the New England culinary scene, their appreciation here is a far cry from what it is in other parts of the country (namely the Southwest), despite the fact that chilies are a New World food and were a component in many traditional diets. Yes, along with tomatoes, corn, squash, beans, and many other basic foods, chilies were not introduced to the Western world until the conquistadors had returned from their explorations of the Americas with seeds in the early 1500s.

Here in Southern Maine we find a handful of fresh varieties in the larger grocery store chains. These may include jalapenos, serranos, habaneros, poblanos, the occasional anaheim and wax pepper, and of course your standard red, green, yellow, and orange bell peppers. The local farmers’ markets do offer a few more interesting varieties, but clearly the chilies are not center stage in any of the farmstands’ offerings. This may be attributed to the relatively short growing season and limited sunshine in northerly states which limit yield of many varieties. There is also simply not enough local demand to make large-scale cultivation profitable. Thus, there is a very specialized market catering to the true heads-heads, who are often looking for a particular variety or two out of thousands of different types.

It’s worth a trip to Monument Square (Wednesday mornings) or Deering Oaks Park (Saturday mornings) to scope the farmers’ markets. Both Snell Family Farm from Bar Mills and Laughing Stock Farm from Freeport grow several varieties of chilies. Another option for chili enthusiasts is to order online. Self-proclaimed "chili freak" Brian Mantle of Cumberland orders several hundred pounds of green chilies every year from New Mexico just for personal use. His favorite suppliers are New Mexican Connection (www.newmexicanconnection.com) and Hatch Chile Express (www.hatch-chile.com). 

But what good are chilies if you don’t know how to use them? For an authentic taste of Southwestern food showcasing the green chili try this recipe:

ULTIMATE GREEN CHILI AND PORK STEW

5 pounds fresh green Anaheim chilies (local) or fresh green Big Jims (shipped)

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder (cut into small chunks)

2 large yellow onions (medium dice)

5 cloves garlic (minced)

2 quarts chicken broth

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

Salt to taste

.25 cup canola oil

12 large flour tortillas

1 pound Monterey jack cheese (shredded)

Heat charcoal or gas grill to highest heat possible to completely char chilies (this may also be done in small batches directly on the open flame of gas stove burner), turning them for even cooking. Place chilies in container and cover for 20 minutes. Allow to cool until they may be handled, then peel off charred skin and remove seeds leaving only the meat of the chilies. Dice into small pieces and set aside.

Heat a large heavy-bottom pot over high heat. Place enough canola oil just to cover bottom. When oil begins to smoke, add pork and let brown. Do not stir. Work in batches if necessary. When pork is well browned, add onions and garlic. Cook until onions are soft and translucent. Stir in flour, cumin, and coriander. Add chilies, chicken stock, and season generously with salt. Turn heat to low and let simmer uncovered for approximately 1:45, or until pork is very tender, adding water if necessary.

To serve, ladle roughly 10 ounces of stew into an open bowl, sprinkle with cheese, and place under broiler until melted. Heat tortillas quickly one at a time in a dry cast-iron pan over high heat until barely browned. Serve and enjoy.

Wilson Rothschild can be reached at nosliwdlihcshtor@yahoo.com